June 1, 2014
Winemaking has made enormous strides in the past few decades through increased use of sophisticated technology. But, as Berkowitz amply describes, vinifying grapes into superior wines still takes an artisan's skills. She has surveyed much of the world of winemaking to produce profiles of the women and men who employ their every sense, from raising fruit to corking bottles. Notable among these biographies, that of Mike Grgich stands out. This Croatian immigrant to California brought his considerable skills from his war-torn native land. Moving up from barrel washer, he now produces renowned wines under his own label. The saga of the growth of Israel's wineries makes compelling reading since the vineyards endure rocket attacks from without and strict kosher regulations from within. Recipes accompany profiles, some easily understood and accessible, some so tied to locally raised meats and produce that they present outsize challenges to home cooks.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2014, American Library Association.)